The Marais
July 10th, 2023 / µ
A Self-Guided Tour Of The Marais
The Marais (3rd and 4th arrondissements in Paris) is the best place I have ever lived (I lived in the 3rd) . Not because I had a great apartment. I didn’t. It was cold and had a kitchen slash bathroom situation… literally. But I loved the area and the apartment as well.
Isn’t it funny how apartments, no matter how cold or cramped, grow on you? And the longer you live here, the more you get to love them? My brother lived in Nyboder when I lived in the Marais, in apartments owned by the Danish military. It was awful housing, but he loved it. Funny, right?
Our Move To Rive Gauche
I only left my apartment in the Marais because it had begun to rain inside the apartment. So, my dog, Gavroche, and I moved to Rive Gauche in 2009.
Our new apartment was smaller, but it was closer to where I worked – no more getting on Line 1 with all the rest of the enslaved people at 8:30 am, crammed in like matches in a matchbox! And, my little guy got to live close to one of the most beautiful parks in Paris, Champs de Mars, where he made some great doggy buddies – Bunny, Dalì, Max, Dempsey, and the rest of the gang.
But of all the places I have lived in my adult life, the best was the Marais. So I reserve the right to remember and idolize the place, covering up the bad days with the candy floss veil of time. Despite the price level, the lack of greenery, and the almost stale air in the summer, it is a people magnet, and if you have ever been there or been lucky enough to have lived there, you will understand why loved it so much.
“Le Marais? It’s a little district in the centre of Paris. It is full of cobbled streets and teetering apartment blocks and gay men and orthodox Jews and women of a certain age who once looked like Brigitte Bardot. It’s the only place to stay.”
Jojo Moyes, Me Before You
My Suggestions For A Great Day In The Marais.
The Marais may seem small, but it is packed to the rim with sites, museums, and great places to eat. Central Marais does not have metro stops, so your best bet is to get off at Bastille or Saint-Paul. The first stop on my route would be:
This is a Holocaust Museum where you will experience the history of the Nazi occupation of Paris and France and the deportation to concentration camps of the French Jewish population, wherefrom very few returned alive. It is elegant and respectful but will hit you emotionally like a punch in the gut. Like these things do – when you are reminded of how evil the human race can be and how too many are willing to participate in atrocities or look the other way, later claiming they knew nothing.
After this experience, a good, hearty, and fresh walk is an excellent idea to clear your head. And it is a lovely walk from here through the old streets up to the:
This is the oldest street market in Paris, named after the nearby orphanage and orphans, who were dressed in red. It is worth a visit, and if you are hungry, snack up! Exit the market on Rue Bretagne and walk down towards the:
Here you will find one of the most significant collections of Pablo Picasso’s works. Picasso (1881 – 1973) spent much of his life in Paris and France, first as a young and impoverished young man, later as an affluent artist and exiled expatriate.
Rue des Rosiers is just a short walk from the Picasso Museum. And even if you did snack up at the market, by now, it should be lunchtime, and on the historic pedestrian street Rue des Rosiers, there are numerous fantastic choices.
The first choice of many tourists will be L’As du Fallafel, thus making the lines long. My personal choice is and was Mi-Va-Mi.
If you are not acquainted with Jewish baking, now is your chance. My favorite bakery is Murciano, just a few meters down the street from L’As du Fallafel and Mi-Va-Mi. My choice: Buy some rugelach, and stuff them in your bag for later.
Full on chickpeas, pita, hummus, and cabbage, rugelach in your bag, walk towards the:
This is a museum of the history of Paris. Despite it being a historical museum, it is not dull. And unlike the Louvre, it is not so big it can feel overwhelming.
Unless it is raining, after the museum, take your ample time walking through the central Marais to Place des Vosges, and maybe open up that bag of rugelach and have yourself a deserved break in the park, one of the most beautifully kept parks in Paris, or pass through it towards the:
This is an apartment turned into a museum, where you can see belongings such as the desk and bed of one of the greatest French writers in history – a great stimulus to re-read Les Misérables.
Back in the fresh air, head for the iconic square Place Sainte-Catherine (H), a square used as the setting in numerous movies, including The Bourne Identity. If not too crowded, the square itself is absolutely instagramable!
Note: The museum Maison Victor Hugo has two addresses. You are at the Place des Vosges. On the website, push the Paris button to access.
Maison Européenne de la Photographie
This would be the last stop on my route. Photography and Paris will always be interlinked – think Bresson and Doisneau. This exhibition celebrates European photography and is a reminder that art does not have to be ancient to be worth looking at!
Off the beaten tourist track: Also to be found in the Marais for photo enthusiasts: The Foundation Henri Cartier-Bresson.
Getting there and away:
Line 1 stops at both Saint Paul and Bastille. Line 8 will drop you off at Filles du Cavaliere (north and a bit out of the way) or Bastille. The most accessible stop is Saint-Paul, but all lines lead to Bastille (almost all that is), and it is only a 15-minute walk down Rue Rivoli, then you are at the Mémorial De La Shoah.
Thanks for reading! I hope you found it valuable and worth your time! Until next time, remember to get your facts straight and that whatever good times you have will never come back as bad times,
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